Holy Week in Malaga

I wasn’t going to put up a post on Holy Week, but we went to see processions and they were so beautiful, I just had to take some photos even though I hadn’t brought the camera along. But I’ve got a mobile phone, even though it doesn’t take such nice photos as the camera.

Cross

On Holy Thursday, the city is filled with processions running up and down all over the place. You can do like what we started to do, which was “procession hopping”, jumping about from one procession to another to see all the different religious statues, or tronos.

However we soon got tired of that activity, and just decided to situate ourselves next to the Alameda, the main thoroughfare in Malaga, because all the processions pass down that way at some point.

Penitents

These people carrying a glittering cross and wearing “cone hats” are penitents.

Trono de virgen

There’s a lot of religious fervour and excitement during Holy Week processions. Even people who haven’t entered into a church for the past fifty years feel awe-struck.

Spectators also applaud the brave and strong men who bear the tronos as they pass by. Each trono-bearer is carrying about 20 kg. on his shoulder. This is very exhausting work and they deserve all that applause, encouragement and confetti!

Niños aburridosHowever, the ones who would probably rather be sitting at home playing with their Nintendo or Gamebox are…… the kiddies. Here are some who are clearly bored out of their minds. But fortunately, today we have portable electronic apparatuses to play with.

Rows of Penitents

My son was quite fascinated by the penitents. He told me that he wanted me to fashion him a cone-shaped hat covered with velvet to wear around the house, and a huge gilded staff like the ones that the penitents carry.

My son’s cousin, a hale and hearty teenager, decided to participate in a procession this year bearing a trono. This wasn’t due to any religious zeal. He just wanted to know what it felt like. He ended up all ground up and declared that he was never going to do this again.

A little boy by our side apparently also had his father carrying a trono. As the statue paraded past us, the little kid just wouldn’t stop screaming at his dad to look at him.

Given the number of processions taking place each year, and the number of men required to make them happen, most of the inhabitants of Malaga probably know someone personally who is bearing a trono.

Another cross

Religion is a pretty important theme during Holy Week, of course – but so is partying! Everywhere we went, it seemed more like a carnival or a fair rather than a supposedly sombre religious event commemorating a rather tragic occurrence. There were people at stands selling everything from hot dogs and hamburgers to donuts and home-grown lemons.

Papas asadas

I think the line-ups to get baked potatoes stuffed with delicious hot filling were just as long as the ones to see a trono pass by.

Apparently, on Holy Thursday all of the processions consist of two tronos coming out of every church that participates. The first trono is always a statue of a cross, Jesus Christ or Jesus Christ on a cross. He is always followed by a statue of his mother, the Virgin Mary. Because if they were carting your son off to hang him, wouldn’t you go running after him too?

Cristo en la cruz

Well, I took a few more photos but I got so tired editing them, and besides which, they were all pretty much more of the same, and not such good quality anyways (after all, I do not have an iPhone!). In the end, what caught my fancy was this large tree with its roots hanging off of the high branches.

Tree Roots Hanging From Tree

I have no idea what this tree is called though. You can see the full moon shining beside it.

If you enjoyed this post (I really hope you do!), maybe you will also like:

Preparing For Holy Week

On Christmas Day in the Morning

Flowers for the Dead on the Day of the Dead

Our Visit to Hare Krishna

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5 comments on “Holy Week in Malaga

  1. Marianne says:

    I hadn´t really thought about going to Malaga to see the processions, as I thought with so many people around I wouldn´t be able to get anywhere near, to see properly. Looks as though I was wrong – or did you wait for hours?

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    • Hi Marianne. Oh that’s a fast reply! Oh no, we didn’t wait at all! We just run around poking at people everywhere until we find a place where the crowd is thinner – we’re very good at running around real fast! Yes, do come over right now if you’d like. There are processions all night long tonight too. Give me a call if you come over and we can go and have something hot (maybe one of those stuffed potatoes haha). Well, no, actually I was thinking of something more proper, like sitting down.

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      • Marianne says:

        I´m afraid I can´t come over tonight Serena, as we have made arrangements to meet some friends and are visiting the procession in the village of Competa later. It would have been good to see the parade on Easter Sunday, but as we have people coming over for lunch, I think all I will be seeing on Sunday is the inside of the kitchen!

        Thanks for the offer though – hope to catch up with you over the next couple of weeks. I´m heading back to the UK on Tuesday until next Sunday – but the following week I should make it.

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      • Hi Marianne! Well, you get a much better view from the TV in your living-room anyways! But there’s nothing like the excitement of actually being there. I haven’t seen processions in villages or small towns yet though, that must be interesting. Yes, get in touch if you feel like hopping over to Malaga sometime. And until then, enjoy your trip!

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