One nefarious day in February 78 years ago, over half the population of Malaga fled to the countryside, down the long and difficult seaside road to Almeria that was their only escape route. Behind them, the invading troops of General Franco, already crowing victory. And on all sides, Italian, German and Franquist naval ships and war planes showering bombs down on the fleeing and defenceless civilians, in the forgotten Massacre of the Road to Almeria.
Most of this human column of fleeing refugees, over 150,000 souls, was made up of women, children and families, who had had nothing to do with the war. As happens in all wars, it’s the politicians and military men who make the decision to attack, and the civilian population – women, children and ordinary men just trying to make a living doing whatever they can – who pay the high price.
The Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939) was, like all wars, complicated and difficult to explain. Most people supported the Republicans. However, the opposition, led by Francisco Franco, enjoyed the support of the Fascist troops of Germany and Italy, and it wasn’t long before they began to conquer the entire country.
Wherever the Franquists went, people fled. Like all invaders, Franco’s troops were notorious for their savagery and barbarism. They looted, stole, raped, murdered, tortured and took whatever they wanted.
So it wasn’t surprising that as soon as the inhabitants of Malaga discovered that these invaders were at their doorstep, they took to the road and fled.
In those days the only unoccupied route out of Malaga was along the dangerous and sinuous road to Almeria. There was little place to hide along the road: it wound its way between the sheer cliffs that fell down towards the sea on one side, and the high mountains on the other. The distance from Malaga to Almeria: 219 km.
That ill-fated Sunday morning, people woke up to the sounds of the Franquist troops surrounding the city, grabbed their things and ran. Those who could climbed into cars, trucks or onto donkeys and mules. The rest had to make their way on foot.
16-year-old Ana María Jiménez woke up in her home in the Capuchinos neighbourhood, looked out the window and saw Francisco Franco’s troops on the mountains overlooking the city, with their cannons and their flags and their muskets.
Her family, like most other families living in Malaga, loaded their belongings onto a truck heading out of town and started on their way. In Rincon de la Victoria, on the outskirts of Malaga, they ran out of gasoline and continued the rest of the way on foot.
“I didn’t understand much about the war at that time,” recalls José Martos, who was only six back then, “but I had it clear that we were running from the Fascists.”
The journey lasted a week. Along the way, as the naval ships drew up close to the shore and began pelting them with bombs and bullets, people started to fall. The Italian and German aviation added their two cents’ worth by riddling the straggling survivors with more bombs.
There was no reason for doing this, other than the cruelty, sadism and taste for innocent blood of the militants who ordered and carried out these attacks.
The people fleeing along the road weren’t Franco’s enemies. They were just families trying to make a living during hard times. They were carpenters and farmers and cooks and schoolteachers. Mothers with babies and little children.
A woman stops to feed her baby, surrounded by dead people, on the long road from Malaga to Almeria
The man who ordered this cowardly attack against the defenceless citizens, Gonzalo Queipo de Llano, explains it thus: “Those masses of people were fleeing, they were getting away. So I thought, why not make them run a little harder?”
The people who survived did so by hiding in holes, ducking down on the ground, rolling behind stones or anything that could shelter them.
Along the way, Ana María and the other refugee children met families who had lost loved ones. Parents burying children in holes in the ground. Entire families lying dead together.
The group found respite about halfway down the road: at Motril, the International Brigade succeeded in halting the enemy attacks and the people were free to continue their journey without death raining down from the sky. However, by then most were so exhausted they could hardly walk.
Suddenly, salvation surged up out of nowhere. Like a dashing white knight in shining armour at the head of a flaming cavalry, the Canadian doctor Norman Bethune arrived with a party of trucks to drive them the rest of the way to Almeria.
Norman Bethune was a Canadian doctor working the Republican frontlines bringing medical aid during the Spanish Civil War. He was in Valencia when he received news of the forced exodus from Malaga, and he hurried to Malaga as quickly as he could.
Norman Bethune with his ambulance
Over and over again, the trucks took off overflowing with people, then returned for more. Norman Bethune himself rode in a vehicle which he had converted into an ambulance, where he attended to the ill and the wounded.
The odyssey didn’t end in Almeria for most of the families on this trail. When they arrived in that remote city, most made their way out on ships and trains and travelled to Barcelona. Some of these families remained in Barcelona for the duration of the war while others journeyed into exile, returning only after the war had ended.
Photo credits: Norman Bethune
For more information:
El camino de los olvidados (Diario Sur)
La matanza de la carretera de Almería (El País)
La matanza de la carretera de Almería (Málaga en Blanco y Negro)
If you enjoyed this post (I really hope you do!), maybe you will also like:
Abandoned Sugar Factory at El Tarajal, Malaga
The Old Provincial Prison of Malaga
In the Studio of Antonio Lopez Diaz
What happened in February 1937 on the Malaga-Almeria road was tragic and not in dispute. However, the Spanish Civil War has incorrectly been characterised for decades, by people in left-wing academia, as a conflict between the fascist forces of evil versus wonderful, democracy-loving people whose democratically-elected republican government fell victim to the horrendous Franco, aided by Hitler and Mussolini.
While the Nationalists did commit atrocities, so did the Republicans, often on a barbaric scale. The Republicans murdered thousands upon thousands of priests and nuns, out of pure raw hatred…often throwing them off the roofs of their churches, or tying them up to burn alive inside their churches that were set on fire. They also murdered, in many instances, totally innocent people, just because they came from a well-to-do family, went to church, or because they had committed the crime of owning a business. For example, Salvador Dali, who was a notorious bisexual and brilliant surrealist artist, joined Franco’s side, mainly because Republican troops raped and murdered his innocent sister whom he had painted sometimes. Her crime? She lived in a nice house and attended church on Sundays. Another example out of thousands: my parents knew a woman who owned a shoe factory in Spain during the late 1970s. Her parents had founded the business and had always been highly respected in the community for being fair towards their workers. During the Spanish Civil War this woman had been a little girl…who one day looked out a window of the shoe factory, only to see both her parents being shot in the head in the street by Republican troops. They were murdered in cold blood for no other reason than being deemed to be “capitalists”, by the Communist Republicans who slaughtered them.
The Spanish Civil War was a fratricidal war between a coalition of the right versus a coalition of the left…and it had been brewing for over a century. Both sides did terrible things and no side had or has a monopoly on virtue. While Hitler and Mussolini assisted Franco, there is lots of leftist amnesia about an equally criminal and bloodthirsty dictator, Joseph Stalin, who was on the Republicans’ side, and through his many agents in Spain, did all he could to turn Republican Spain into a communist satellite of Moscow. He was quite successful, as by the end of the Civil War in late 1938/early 1939, the Negrin Republican government was comprised mainly of communists…especially since without them, Republican Spain would not have been receiving Soviet war materiel.
In recent years the bias against the Franco side has reached a feverish pitch, particularly in Spain, where left-wing “political correctness” is rampant…and where students are taught that the Spanish Civil War was a conflict of democracy and good (the Republic) versus evil dictatorship(Franco). Even when a bone of a donkey is found in the soil, it is trumpeted as being part of a victim of Franco’s regime. All semblance of balance and objectivity has gone out the window, which is not healthy for a society that should learn from its past, as opposed to whitewashing it.
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Thank you so much for dropping by my blog, Laurence. Yes in any war no side is completely innocent and everyone is guilty of some atrocities. When it’s a choice between you surviving by killing someone else, or you not surviving, most people would choose to kill, I think, just human nature and the instinct to survive. How many of us have pushed someone aside in the street at some point to get to someplace before the people in front of us did, just because we were in a hurry? We all have a primal need to stay alive no matter what.
Thanks for this; shows how the spirit of one can overcome the cruelty of many.
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Thanks so much for dropping by my blog, Gypsy! Yes one person CAN make a difference. Even though so often we all feel like we can’t!
Hello, Sorry for using the comments to try and contact you, but I could’t find any better way. I would like to email or talk with you about moving to spain. I’m canadian and just starting to look into this.
Hi Véronique! Thanks for dropping by my blog. You can write to me at info(at)seasofmintaka.com. Where in Canada are you? When are you thinking of coming to Spain? Do you know where you’d like to live yet, or are you planning on travelling around a bit first? Good luck in your new journey!